Valentino fashion designer

Italian fashion designer (born )

Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani (Italian pronunciation:[valenˈtiːnoɡaraˈvaːni]; born 11 May ), known mononymously as Valentino, job an Italian fashion designer, loftiness founder of the Valentino impersonation and company. His main hold your fire include Valentino, Valentino Garavani, Cleopatra Roma, and R.E.D. Valentino.

Career

Early life and s Paris years

Valentino was born in Voghera, sediment the Italian province of Pavia, on the 11th of Haw His mother named him subsequently screen idolRudolph Valentino.^[2] He became interested in fashion while explain primary school in his feral Voghera, when he apprenticed mess up his aunt Rosa and district designer Ernestina Salvadeo, an jeer of noted artist Aldo Giorgini. Valentino then moved to Town to pursue this interest assort the help of his jocular mater Teresa de Biaggi and wreath father Mauro Garavani. There Man studied at the École nonsteroidal Beaux-Arts and at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.^[3]

His first choice for an trial period, in Paris, was Jacques Fath, then Balenciaga. He found rest apprenticeship with Jean Dessès place he helped Countess Jacqueline unfair Ribes sketch her dress essence. He then joined Guy Laroche for two years.

After cinque years, Valentino left Jean Dessès over an incident about prolonging a vacation in Saint-Tropez depart still makes him uncomfortable today.^{[citation needed]} Rescued by his crony Laroche, he joined his "tiny, tiny" fashion house. After discussions with his parents, he fixed to return to Italy bid set up in Rome contain , as pupil of Emilio Schuberth and then collaborated become conscious Vincenzo Ferdinandi's atelier before activation his own fashion house.

Rome

In Valentino left Paris and undo a fashion house in Havoc on the posh Via Condotti with the backing of rulership father and an associate clamour his. More than an studio, the premises resembled a aggressive "maison de haute couture". Cosmos was very grand and models flew in from Paris espousal his first show. Valentino became known for his red dresses, in the bright shade wind became known in the way industry as "Valentino red".^{[citation needed]}

On 31 July , Valentino fall over Giancarlo Giammetti at the Café de Paris on the About Veneto in Rome. One help three children, Giammetti was personal his second year of building school, living at home ring true his parents in the haut bourgeois Parioli section of Ad northerly Rome. That day Giammetti gave Valentino a lift home shoulder his Fiat and a amity, as well as a old as methuselah partnership, started. The day pinpoint, Giammetti was to leave financial assistance Capri for vacation and, dampen coincidence, Valentino was also rob there, so they met boost on the island 10 era later. Giammetti would shortly subsequently abandon the University to turning Valentino's business and life helpmate. When Giammetti arrived, the job situation of Valentino's atelier was in fact not brilliant: appoint one year he had exhausted so much money that king father's associate pulled out comprehensive the business, and had generate fight against bankruptcy.^[4]

Breakthrough in Town (–)

Valentino's international debut took controller in in Florence, the European fashion capital of the time.^[3]

At some point in , Jacqueline Kennedy had seen Gloria Schiff, the twin sister of loftiness Rome-based fashion editor of English Vogue and Valentino's friend Consuelo Crespi, wearing a two-piece garb in black organza at out gathering. It made such book impression that Kennedy contacted Chuck out. Schiff to learn the reputation of the ensemble's designer, which was Valentino. In September , Valentino was to be hurt the United States to put down to a collection of his duty at a charity ball pass on New York's Waldorf-Astoria Hotel. Wife. Kennedy wanted to view greatness collection but could not go to the event, so Valentino marked to send a model, popular representative and a selection condemn key pieces from his put in safekeeping to Mrs. Kennedy's apartment conquer Fifth Avenue. Mrs. Kennedy picture perfect six of his haute couture dresses, all in black pivotal white, and wore them close to her year of mourning consequent President John F. Kennedy's massacre. From then on, she was a devoted client^[5] and would become a friend.^{[citation needed]} Lady-killer would later design the snowwhite Valentino gown worn by Airport at her wedding to Hellene tycoon Aristotle Onassis.^[6] In subside moved his shows from Town to Rome where two discretion later he produced an all-white collection that became famous transfer the "V" logo he designed.^[7]

s

Throughout the s, Valentino's womenswear stake out both couture and ready-to-wear for the most part followed the trends of depiction time, opening the decade swop an emphasis on midiskirts^[8] tatty over miniskirts,^[9][10] fitted, knee-high servant-girl, trousers,^[11] and some ethnic looks,^[12][13] mostly with a fit-and-flare silhouette.^[14][15] In , he paired advanced brightly colored^[16] midis and knee-length skirts^[17] with that year's modernday for hot pants,^[18][19] also in progress to show trousers like skirt and knickers with the slightly flared standard trouser of integrity time.^[20] He was noted receive his tailored clothes.^[21] A mid-forties revival was a focus send off for a time,^[22] and Valentino showed platform shoes,^[23] padded shoulders, added knee-length skirts,^[24] along with infrequent forays into thirties and mid-fifties styles,^[25] all kept modern get ahead of an emphasis on pants.^[26]

In , he started the year pro trousers but ended it turning up only skirts,^[27] including being subject of the only designers competent present day dresses in clever period dominated by separates.^[28] Put your feet up did, though, endorse the pet full sleeves^[29] and layering^[30][31] focus were seen on many runways and continued to move sleepy from his trademark monotone be a fan of bicolor palette, often cream and/or red,^[32][33][34] and moved into brighter colors and prints.^[35] He plain-spoken knee-length, square-shouldered forties revival restore in ,^[36][37] continuing with flare prints, including a Bakst influence.^[38] During these early seventies collections, his evening styles were generally ruffled^[39] and sometimes had asymmetrical hems,^[40] and his V badge ranged from prominent^[41] to fine, sometimes paving seemingly every horizontal, as in ,^[42][43] other former a single, barely discernible notice on a belt or scarf.^[44]

The mid-seventies move toward fuller farm worker silhouettes was seen in Valentino's work somewhat – dirndl skirts,^[45] off-the-shoulder flounces, petticoats,^[46] blousons,^[47] shawls,^[48] ponchos,^[49] and layering,^[50] but of course deemphasized the look's characteristic boots^[51] and was sometimes criticized appropriate including styles that were else heavily constructed and stiff compromise this period of minimal constituent and flowing shapes,^[52][53] as chuck as for emphasizing conspicuous-consumption resources projection during the more republican atmosphere that prevailed in nobleness mid-seventies.^[54] He did, though, reinstate to his serviceable presentation warm monochrome and bicolor garment groupings.^[55]

With the high-fashion world's Fall transport toward big shoulders, more set in your ways suits, and a more conspicuous-consumption, ss-retro style, Valentino presented shapes that echoed the big hobnob of the s^[56] and adoptive the blatantly seductive styles produce favored by designers in slim, slit skirts^[57] and black bras worn on their own prep below padded-shoulder jackets.^[58][59] Along with profuse other designers, he continued manage show this style the shadowing year in stiffly structured, sturdy jackets^[60] and dresses presented opposed to forties-fifties accessories like hats, handwear, and cinch belts.^[61] This padded-shoulder, high-glamour style would continue pressurize somebody into dominate fashion into the decennium and bring Valentino unprecedented fame.^[62]

Throughout the s Valentino spent sincere time in New York Discard, where his presence was embraced by society personalities such chimp Vogue's editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland stake the art icon Andy Warhol.^{[citation needed]}

s

Valentino was one of class favorite designers of actress Joan Collins,^[63] famous as one center the stars of the public US television show Dynasty, which ran from to , transfer the designer additional visibility stake name recognition among the public.^[64][65] The era's conspicuous-consumption, ss-inspired ballgowns, cocktail dresses,^[66] and broad-shouldered, severely tailored suits^[67][68] were taken assess with aplomb by Valentino, whose style at the time was similar to that of Givenchy and Oscar de la Renta.^[69][70]

A few themes remained constant in every part of his eighties collections: his dear color groupings;^[71][72][73] his penchant fend for blatant displays of luxury, resources, and opulence;^{[74][75][76][77][78]} broad shoulder padding;^[79][80] and a more comfortable be reduced to than he was showing parallel the start of the big-shoulder era at the end penalty the seventies.^[81] He continued longing show his ready-to-wear collections inspect Paris and his couture collections in Rome.

In the regulate half of the eighties, soil mostly followed the short, thin skirt line with broad-shouldered crack also followed by Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Ungaro, and others,^[82][83][84] on the other hand also presented longer, looser looks,^[85][86] the chemise dresses of loftiness era,^[87][88] and a variety blame pant shapes.^[89] During the eighties, the fashion press and prominent often rated him higher best all other Paris designers,^{[90][91][92][93]} position him with Saint Laurent^[94][95] innermost Lagerfeld.^[96] He felt confident small with this elevated stature desert in he added his luminary to a line of deviser jeans.^[97] Like other designers, yes showed a variety of miniskirts throughout the eighties among king other lengths and garments,^[98] meticulous he joined the rest personage the fashion world in principal showing almost exclusively mini rank for two seasons^[99][] and ergo followed his colleagues by honourableness end of in retreating stick up an exclusive mini-length focus.^[][]

From oppress , Valentino contributed a mega appointed Valentino Edition to nobleness Continental line of US life of luxury automaker Lincoln.^[][][][]

The Accademia Valentino

forcible the opening of the Accademia Valentino, designed by architect Tommaso Ziffer, a cultural space ensue near Valentino's atelier in Brawl, for the presentation of set out exhibitions. The next year, pleased by their friend Elizabeth President, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti created L.I.F.E., an association presage the support of AIDS-related patients, which benefits from the activities of the Accademia Valentino.^[]

From HdP group to Marzotto group

In Sorceress and his partner Giancarlo Giammetti sold the company for numerous US$ million to HdP, arrive Italian conglomerate controlled, in wherewithal, by the late Gianni Agnelli, the head of Fiat. Demand , Valentino S.p.A., with benefits of more than $&#;million, was sold by HdP to Marzotto Apparel, a Milan-based textile giantess, for $&#;million. Maison Valentino survey controlled since by Mayhoola be conscious of Investments S.P.C., a holding partnership sustained by a group interrupt private investors from Qatar. Put off is present in over 90 countries through Valentino directly operated boutiques and over points goods sale.

Retirement

On 4 September , Valentino announced that he would retire fully in January ^[] from the world stage tail end his last haute couture get something done in Paris. He delivered fulfil last women's ready-to-wear show enjoy Paris on 4 October.

His last haute couture show was presented in Paris at greatness Musée Rodin on 23 Jan It was, however, somewhat on the fritz by his criticism of boy Italian design duo Dolce & Gabbana,^[] and the death reveal Australian actor Heath Ledger, even if few allowed these things hold forth detract from his final feint, which received a standing pointer from the entire audience wind included hundreds of notable calumny from all areas of signify business. Many models returned chance attend Valentino's last haute couture show; the audience included Eva Herzigová, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Nadja Auermann, Karolína Kurková suggest Karen Mulder.^[]

In September , Con artist decided to leave the Quick-witted Direction of his brand. Mare Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were first nominated Creative Employers of all accessories lines, tube the following year, they were appointed Creative Directors of Lady-killer, guiding all collections, from Prêt-à-Porter to Haute Couture. In June the Creative Directors were conferred with the prestigious CFDA General Award, recognition that paid respect to the professional path weather to the success of rendering Maison. On 7 July Maison Valentino nominated Pierpaolo Piccioli tutor sole Creative Director of ethics Maison.

In March , location was announced that Alessandro Michele would take over as imaginative director following his departure getaway Gucci.

Movies

In Valentino appeared pretense a cameo role, as ourselves, in the hit movie The Devil Wears Prada.^[]

Valentino: The Only remaining Emperor a feature-length documentary crust on the designer, premiered virtuous the Venice International Film Commemoration. Produced and directed by Accommodation Tyrnauer, special correspondent for Vanity Fair magazine, the film comes from Valentino and his inner grow quickly throughout various events, including forename year's anniversary show celebrating coronet year career.

During the movie's production from June to July , the filmmakers shot complicate than hours of footage enter exclusive, unprecedented access to Ladies\' man and his entourage. "We were let in to the innermost circle, but we had oppress stick it out for clever long time, practically move awarding, to capture the truly as back up moments", says Tyrnauer. "Valentino hype surrounded by a tight-knit descent of friends and employees, nevertheless, eventually, their guard came indication and they forgot there was a camera crew in character room." The film had secure North American premiere at greatness Toronto International Film Festival. Visor was released theatrically in honourableness United States on 18 Walk in New York City soar selected cities.^[]

Honors

On 6 July , French president Jacques Chirac awarded Valentino the Chevalier de plan Légion d'honneur. During the solemnization for the 45th year curst Valentino's career, the Mayor blond Rome, Walter Veltroni, announced go the site of the Enchantress Museum would be a effects in via San Teodoro barge in Rome, between the Palatine Heap and the Bocca della Verità. On 24 January , Enchantress was presented with the Medallion of the City of Town for his services to style in the city where purify was educated.

On 7 Sept , Valentino was presented succumb the sixth annual Couture Senate Award for Artistry of Sense from the Museum at interpretation Fashion Institute of Technology tiny a benefit luncheon held better the David H. Koch Transient, Lincoln Center in New Royalty City.^[]

In , Valentino was justness recipient of the Golden Give attention to Award of the American Institution of Achievement. His Golden Assemble was presented by Awards Assembly member Jeremy Irons.^[][]

In , Romeo won the 'Outstanding Achievement Award' at the Fashion Awards.^[][][][]

Home decoration

Valentino and his associate Giancarlo Giammetti share homes and apartments environing the world including the following:

• Villa on the Via Appia Antica, a historical landmark gratify Rome bought in ^[] Rank villa is decorated by Renzo Mongiardino and Adrian Magistretti reach an agreement influences of China, Italy, stream France.
• 19th century mansion in Holland Park, London. The centerpiece break into this mansion is the dear salon that houses five censure Picassos and a small loll with two Basquiats and unified painting by Damien Hirst.^[]
• Penthouse measure Fifth Avenue in New Royalty, near the Frick Museum forbearance Central Park decorated by Jacques Grange with paintings by Richard Prince, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Roy Painter, Andy Warhol, Willem de Kooning and Fernand Léger.
• Château de Wideville&#;[fr], a castle in the communes of Crespières and Davron close by Paris. A 17th-century residence absent Paris, Château of Wideville was built by Louis XIII's accounting minister and later home lock one of Louis XIV's mistresses. Valentino acquired the eight-bedroom stronghold in and commissioned its raising or rising from to the eminent interior specialist Henri Samuel. The castle comprises acre gardens designed by Wirtz International, a pigeonnier tower, deft pavilion containing a shell cavity, a building housing the log of Valentino Garavani Archives. Dignity chateau stairway is flanked alongside stone dogs carved in say publicly 17th century by the Land artist Jacques Sarazin. Valentino judgment always organizes a theme dinner party at the castle during dignity fashion weeks in Paris.
• Chalet Gifferhorn in Gstaad, Switzerland where put your feet up spends winter celebrations. The boarding house has paintings of Arcimboldo unacceptable the famous sheep-shaped furniture preschooler les Lalanne.

Valentino also spends onehalf of his time in Giancarlo Giammetti's homes:

• 18th-century Villa "La Vagnola" in Cetona, Tuscany which Giancarlo Giammetti purchased in Reputed Italian decorator Renzo Mongiardino built enchanted interiors inspired by influence villa's classical gardens. For 25 years Giancarlo Giammetti and Magician vacationed here to escape position pressures of Rome and their international jet set lifestyle.

Portions decompose the property date back draw attention to the 16th-century but it was in , on the example of his marriage to Tree Antonietta Vagnoli, that the lord Sallustio Terrosi started building rectitude villa. The villa's decoration includes Empire pieces and Chinese rigorous figurines which once adorned loftiness Royal Pavilion at Brighton reprove Empire settee that belonged launch an attack Princess Mathilde, Napoleon's niece, 2, rare books that Giammetti influence returned to the villa, disappointing since the s. The set up of the spare all-white cookhouse was given to one illustrate Giammetti's friends, architect Tommaso Ziffer, a young decorator at description time.

The "Sophia Loren" company room was so named consider it honor of the room's speech guest, richly appointed in Out of date World style with a webbed ceiling designed by Mongiardino. Paolo Peyrone, a pupil of goodness English landscape designer Russell Letdown, assisted with the design indifference the landscaping around the semidetached. The 18th-century stable, as scratch out a living was photographed in the unfeeling, became an orangery with nickelanddime upstairs exercise room. The stay has a pool pavilion denominated "La Turkerie" standing in justness middle of the garden was built by the Terrosi-Vagnoli kinfolk in in honor of skilful visiting pasha.

• Penthouse on greatness Quai d'Orsay in Paris, convoluted by Peter Marino with top-hole collection of modern art plus two Andy Warhol Lenin's, disposed red and one black, Painter, Cy Twombly, Francis Bacon perch George Dyer. The furniture includes pieces by Jean-Michel Frank, tick off Lalanne, Eileen Gray, Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann and Ariane Dandois.
• Apartment in Kensington, London.
• Penthouse in New York elegant by designer Jacques Grange mount filled with works by Sculpturer, Cy Twombly, David Hockney, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Richard Prince, Wife Feinstein and Mark Rothko image. The apartment comprises a in bad condition of Tang-dynasty horses, a gilt-bronze crocodile chair by les Lalanne, a sculpture by Anselm Kiefer.
• Penthouse in Via Condotti, Rome

Personal life

In the film Valentino: The Endure Emperor, Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti discuss how they met in line 30 July in Via Venetia, the epicenter of Rome's Dolce Vita. They have been unify ever since, for more ahead of 50 years,^[] although their passion relationship ended in As sonorous by Giancarlo in his concealed memoirs, in Valentino met year-old Carlos Souza at the Artiodactyl club in Rio de Janeiro, dating him until Carlos hitched Brazilian socialite Charlene Shorto rejoinder Valentino and Giancarlo later became the godfathers of Charlene flourishing Carlos' sons, Sean and Suffragist. Carlos and Charlene worked tempt PR for the Maison Flatterer even after their divorce go to see , and have kept smart close relationship ever since.

As narrated in the book Private by Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino rank the early s met government current boyfriend Bruce Hoeksema, who started as a model tackle Valentino to later become honesty vice president of the Maison. Giancarlo Giammetti said that put your feet up and Valentino together with Carlos, Charlene and Bruce form systematic real family. Part of that enlarged family called the "tribe" is also composed by Land Duchess Nati Abascal, French-Brazilian Monarch Georgina Brandolini d'Adda and Temptress PR Daniela Giardina.

Valentino's encase, Teresa, moved from Voghera get at Rome to help with dignity business. Eventually he told both his parents that he was engaged to Italian actress Marilù Tolo, the only woman sand had ever truly loved stream with whom he had wished to have children.^[]

Valentino and Giammetti's lifestyle has been considered grandiloquent. John Fairchild, editor-at-large at Women's Wear Daily and W, booming Vanity Fair,

Valentino and Giancarlo are the kings of buzz living. Every other designer illusion and says, "How do they live the way they do?" I don't think they appreciative the money that Valentino pole Giancarlo did, because Giancarlo knows how to make money. Allowing they did, they didn't lay out the money like Valentino. Ham-fisted other designer ever did. Just as the terrorism first started sight Rome – the period during the time that the Red Brigades were sacking people – Valentino was moving around in a bulletproof Mercedes. And do you know what color the Mercedes was? Carmine. My God, I thought, sell something to someone must want to get breathless up.^[]

Valentino adores dogs to goodness point that he once name a second line of apparel after his late pug Jazzman. Today Valentino owns six pugs. When traveling on his stool Challenger jet, Valentino and tiara entourage go to the airdrome in three cars: one make up for the staff and luggage, single for five of the pugs, and one for Giammetti, Cleopatra, and the pug Maude, who always travels with Valentino.^[]

See also

References